The Pleasure of Writing - A Must-Stop Shop in beautiful Carmel

(Kimberly (she/her) took the express train down the fountain pen/stationery rabbit hole and doesn't want to be rescued. She can be found on Instagram @allthehobbies because there really are many, many hobbies!.)

One of the many things I love about living in California, and specifically the Bay Area, is the proximity to the beach. And while there are hundreds of miles of beaches up and down the California coast, one of my favorites happens to be at Carmel-by-the-Sea.

The GoodYear blimp was overhead for the nearby ProAm at the world famous Pebble Beach golf course.

Just 10 miles south of Monterey and about 100 miles south of San Francisco, Carmel is a cute little town that is a little bit Rodeo Drive meets beach town. It has a variety of local shops, restaurants, art galleries and more, all along 5-6 blocks of the main thoroughfare. And one of those shops is The Pleasure of Writing, IG: thepleasureofwriting

The Pleasure of Writing, formerly Bittner Pens, is a treasure trove of pens and all things stationery. The Pleasure of Writing was founded in 1991 by Detlef Bittner and recently celebrated its 30th anniversary in 2021. Detlef sold the business last year to Helmut Fritz, who originally wanted to retire and travel the world but then Covid hit and travel was off limits. Being a Carmel resident, Helmut had visited the store on many occasions and found out Detlef was looking to retire from the pen business and felt this was a good way to spend his time and energy.

The shop is tucked away in a little alcove at the corner of Ocean Avenue and San Carlos Street, and a yellow sign above the shop reads Bittner The Pleasure of Writing (though I’m sure they are working on getting a new sign made).

Silly me, I took a selfie and forgot to take a picture of the front of the shop without me in it, lol!

Inside, what greets you is a cozy space that’s filled with pen, ink and paper goodness! And in my case, I was lucky enough to be greeted by Helmut himself!

A friendly Helmut greeted me with a smile!

Maybe the first thing that catches your eye is the Montblanc display, I mean, that’s the first thing I saw before I saw Helmut! Or maybe it’s the walls of stunning, well-lit pen displays. Or the notebooks and stationery…

Some of these have me drooling, like that MB Aviator Doue…

Many things have stayed the same since the change of ownership. One thing that is new is that The Pleasure of Writing is now an authorized Montblanc retailer. Helmut told me that they are the only independent Montblanc shop on the west coast (that aren’t online only or Montblanc boutiques). Prior to this, the Montblancs that were sold here were from consignment or otherwise previously owned. Now, they have added Montblanc to their inventory which is great news; it is less great if you are an international shopper as Montblanc does not allow them to ship out of the US, and if you’re a US shopper but want to buy them online, per Montblanc’s regulations, they are not allowed to sell the pens online (though you can see pictures, read descriptions on the website and then reach out to them to place an order).

There are several displays of pens throughout the store and the staff are always happy to open them up to show them to you. Wendy, who has been working at the store for years, was also there when I stopped by. Here are some of the stunning pens she showed me during my visit.

Fancy Pelikan== Pelikan Seven Treasures and M1000 White Ray.

The new Ammiraglio pens in four US-exclusive colors from Montegrappa.

I’ve never seen a Dragon Phoenix Visconti before!

One of the urushi Lamy Dialog 3.

The Lingua Pacifica David Oscarson collection was exclusively made for The Pleasure of Writing.

The store has a decent selection of inks, but one of the things that really stand out is their variety of high quality paper products. From stunning Paperblanks notebooks to Italian stationery, to notecards by Crane and G. Lalo, as well as Leuchtturm, Nebula Notebooks, Clairefontaine and more, The Pleasure of Writing makes sure there is no shortage of great paper to write on!

Enough inks to tide you over, but it’s the paper that is the eye candy here!

These Italian letter sets are fountain pen friendly AND gorgeous!

Wall of notebooks, letter sets and note cards.

So if you’re ever in the area, or even a couple hours away, do yourself a favor and visit The Pleasure of Writing. And if you still have time after looking at all the wonderful stuff in the shop, make sure you walk down the hill and enjoy the dog-friendly beach too. Oh, and if you’re in the Los Angeles area this weekend, you can find them at the LA Pen Show too!

Gratuitous beach picture with our doggo...or is that a gratuitous dog picture at the beach?

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Atlas Stationers - So Many Aisles, So Little Time

Atlas Stationers is housed in the ground floor of a 140 year old building. (Image via Atlas Stationers)

(Kimberly (she/her) took the express train down the fountain pen/stationery rabbit hole and doesn't want to be rescued. She can be found on Instagram @allthehobbies because there really are many, many hobbies!.)

After the Chicago Pen Show a couple months ago, I got a chance to pop into the Atlas Stationers store in downtown Chicago. Unfortunately, I didn’t have a lot of time to really do a proper visit but what little I managed to see gave me a reason to come back and spend at least half a day next time I’m in Chicago.

Atlas Stationers is located at 227 W Lake Street, Chicago, IL 60606 and their hours are Mon - Fri from 9:00am - 5:00pm and Saturday from 10:00am - 2:00pm (be sure to check their website for holiday hours).

Atlas Stationers was founded by Aloysius (pronounced al-oh-IH-shus) Schmidt in 1939 as an office supply store and the Schmidt family continues to run the business to this day. Don, Therese, Brian and Brendan Schmidt all have different roles at Atlas Stationers. Don (and grandson of Aloysius) is the President of Atlas and oversees all of the operations at Atlas Stationers. His wife, Therese, is the general manager of the retail store and also in charge of shipping and receiving; if you’ve ever received an order from Atlas, you’ve probably seen Therese’s handwritten notes in your package. Sons Brian and Brendan are the 4th generation of Schmidts to be a part of the family business, which I think is pretty cool. Brian is the VP at Atlas and handles accounting as well as purchasing for the fine writing department (aka non-office supplies). And last, but not least, Brendan manages the fine writing side of the retail store, along with customer service, vendor relations and social media. In fact, you’ve probably seen Brendan on Instagram doing IG Live sessions as well as hosting giveaways and brand takeovers. I love watching the rivalry between Brendan, the Chicago Bears fan, and Bryce Gillett of Luxury Brands of America, the Green Bay Packers fan – as a SF 49ers fan, I’m staying out of this one, lol.

In March 2020, Atlas Stationers did a major relaunch of their website, moving onto a Shopify platform. This made it easier for customers to buy pretty much everything you can buy from their retail store (except some office supplies).

Upon entering the store, you are greeted with well-lit displays of fine writing instruments from Pilot, Visconti, Lamy, Waldmann, Esterbrook, Leonardo, Narwhal and more.

Walk in, look right and bam, pens galore!

This is the view you’re likely to see in IG videos. This doesn’t even capture all of the displays in the store.

How many brands can you spot in this display? I see Leonardo, Waldmann, Narwhal, Sensa, TWSBI and some Benu too!

Loads of Lamys.

Visconti Ember (left) and Van Gogh Novel Reader (right) - Trust me, they are even more beautiful in person!

The Limited Edition Visconti QWERTY fountain pen - you don’t get to see that every day!

In addition to their wide selection of fountain pens and other fine writing instruments, I found aisles and aisles of paper and notebooks from Clairefontaine, Rhodia, Filofax, Leuchtturm and Hobonichi, as well as other stationery goods including greeting cards and office supplies like Post-it notes, pens, pencils, envelopes, etc.

The Filofax and Moleskine notebooks are just beyond the front register.

A satisfying display of fully-stocked, colorful Leuchtturm.

Down the aisle, you’ll find Rhodia and Clairefontaine notebooks and notepads

Everything you need to stock your office!

This picture doesn’t even capture half the store!

They also have a wide range of fountain pen inks (and other refills) along with a binder of swatches which I forgot to take photos of, oops. Brands include favorites like Diamine, Robert Oster and Colorverse as well as Anderilium and Laban and more!

Look at all those inks! This inkophile approves!

Another peek at part of the ink aisle, including gifts in the back and the black binder of swatches next to the Conklin/Monteverde pen display.

Sometimes you need a last-minute gift or need a distraction for your younger shopping companions (ok, maybe you needed to bribe them to go to the store), they also have tons of fun items for both kids and grownups including puzzles, candles, toys and books.

How cute are these stuffies from JellyCat?!?

The mushroom or the plants? Or maybe the pretzel? I can’t decide!

I mean, who doesn’t need a pair of these?

Candles, Chicago souvenirs and yes, more plushies!

Greeting cards and wrapping paper and gift bags (for those adorable JellyCat stuffies, of course).

As you can see, the Atlas Stationers store has a wide variety of stationery and gifts, but what you can’t photograph is their customer service. All of the staff (and not just the Schmidts) are helpful, courteous and really focus on making people feel at home and comfortable in their store. If you ever get a chance to visit Chicago, you should definitely plan to spend some time here and maybe you can help me pick out my next JellyCat plushy :-)

Traveling with Fountain Pens - Planes, Trains, and Automobiles

(Kimberly (she/her) took the express train down the fountain pen/stationery rabbit hole and doesn't want to be rescued. She can be found on Instagram @allthehobbies because there really are many, many hobbies!.)

With the holidays coming up (and with recent pen show travels), it occurred to me that there may be questions about traveling with fountain pens, specifically airplane travel. Hopefully this answers some questions and alleviates some anxiety about pens and travel.

Packing

• Figure out your writing needs - Are you attending a pen show? You may want to bring pens to sell, tune/grind or show off during after hours. Are you going away for a 3-day weekend trip where you will have lots of time to write? A few pens may be enough. Or maybe you’ll be writing lots of letters and like switching pens every page (like I do), maybe 6 or more pens are in order.

• Which pens?

• How much ink? - Will you be doing a lot of writing and therefore want a lot of high-capacity piston fillers? Or perhaps a 1-2 pens that take standard international cartridges and then pack a handful of carts instead? I have never packed ink bottles or vials just for re-inking during travel. I figure I’d either buy ink if I’m headed to a pen show or somewhere that has a FP shop nearby, or I bring some TWSBIs or Pilot 823 or other piston/vac fillers. But if you do decide to bring vials or bottles, consider wrapping them in a paper towel with bubble wrap and putting them in a baggie. If you’re extra paranoid like me, you can also wrap the cap and vial/bottle with parafilm.

• Replaceability - You might not want to bring pens that would be difficult to replace if it were to get lost or forgotten on an airplane or damaged during travels. When I went to Europe a few years ago, I packed Pilot Metropolitans (and extra carts) and TWSBIs that were readily available, not the long-sold out/sought after colors. This is a tougher decision when traveling to or from a pen show where you may be bringing special pens with you.

• Storage - Depending on the number of pens you’re bringing, you might want to use a case like a Nock Sinclair, Franklin-Christoph Penvelope or Rickshaw Pen Roll or Coozy Sleeve/Case. I usually have my pens in a pen binder/case because it’s easy to put them in my massive purse. I like binders because it’s easy to keep the pens upright (more on why that’s important in a bit).

The 48-pen case which carries my currently inked pens is from Girologio, the 20-pen case is from Franklin-Christoph, and my show-and-tell pens are in Rickshaw Pen Rolls and Coozy sleeves.

• How to Pack - You will hear a lot of advice out there as to how to bring inked pens onto airplanes. Some will tell you to have them all uninked and ink up at your destination. Some say that you should top up all your pens (so there is less air in the barrel/cartridge/piston that could cause burping in the cap during flights). Some will also suggest that you individually ziplock bag every pen. I am one of those folks who regularly has 40+ pens inked (I had 60 inked for Chicago, lol) and I do not do any of these things. I’ve only had 2 pens burp in the cap in the 4 years I’ve been traveling with FPs, and one of them was a ¼ full eyedropper. If you feel more comfortable with any of the above steps, by all means, go for it. Just know that it generally isn’t a problem if you keep the nibs up (also more on that in a bit), but putting a paper towel or two in your case wouldn’t hurt either.

• Where to put it all - Quite simply, put your pens in your carryon, unless theft or loss is not a concern (like you’re bringing two inexpensive pens or something). You can also carry a vial or two of ink in your carryon. Use good vials that many of the online pen vendors sell versus the super inexpensive ones you can get on eBay. I get a little bit paranoid about leaks, so I also use parafilm to minimize any leaks, but it won’t save a vial that has a bad seal/cap. I then put them in individual little baggies, which are all placed in yet another bag. You don’t want to have a vial leak all over you or your carryon. More on vials in this article.

• If you are bringing more ink than the 3-1-1 TSA limits will allow, they will have to go in your checked luggage. If I know I might come home with ink (or other items), I will pack a small box with some bubble wrap or packing peanuts and put that in my checked luggage.

I have two carryons when I fly - a large Rickshaw tote (which is massive and barely fits under the seat in front of me, lol) and my rollaboard suitcase. My inked pens go in my tote and any uninked pens go in the suitcase. If I’m carrying ink, they go in my rollaboard since I’m not going to ink up during the flight.

Before flight

• TSA/Security - Don’t be alarmed if the TSA agent takes a longer than usual look at the x-ray machine. Remember that most folks out there aren’t pen addicts and can’t fathom why anyone would need more than one pen. And there are many folks who have never seen a fountain pen before, let alone more than one or two of them.

• If you like to pocket carry your pens, whether in your pant pockets or shirt pockets, you should take them out and put them in your carryon before you go through security.

• If you get pulled aside and the agent asks to inspect your pens, you should keep a watchful eye to make sure your pens aren’t damaged during inspection. You can let them know if a certain pen is a twist cap before they start to pull on it. I have only been inspected once and they just opened the pen binder and did a visual inspection. And yes, I counted my pens before leaving the area. (Tip: if you fill your case to capacity, it’s easy to see if pens are missing)

• And no, inks inside the pens don’t count for as part of the liquid limit for carryons, but anything in vials or bottles do. The current limit is 3-1-1, which is a max of 3 ounces of liquid. That’s one Noodlers bottle or 88ml of ink (1.5+ regular bottles of 50ml ink), which is a lot of ink for regular travel, but it also means that you could carry on some ink that you bought during your travels, as long as you’re under the limit.

• Checking in your carryon - Sometimes flights run out of room for the larger carryons and you have to check them in at the gate. Before you hand over your bag, remove your pens and put them in your other carryon (purse, backpack or briefcase). This is to avoid potential theft as well as damage since we’ve all seen luggage getting thrown around.

On the plane

• Storing your pens - Keeping your inked pens nib up is key to minimizing leakage and burping. So I keep my tote under the seat in front of me (which is just good thing to do if you’re flying with two carryons, so you’re not an overhead bin hog) and my uninked pens are in the overhead compartment. Yes, you can put your inked pens in the overhead compartment too but there is a greater risk of burping versus nib up.
• Takeoff and Landing - These are the times when the cabin’s air pressure changes most dramatically, resulting in a greater likelihood of burping. Save the writing for when you’re waiting for the plane to push back from the gate, when you’re at cruising altitude, or after you’ve landed. It’s also a good idea to put the pens away if there’s a lot of turbulence on the flight. Burping issues aside, it’s kind of difficult to write legibly when the plane is making your lines look like jagged scribbles.

After flight

• Check your seating area - If I pull out my pens during the flight, I sometimes put the case in the seat pocket in front of me. And the first thing I do after I’m done with writing is immediately put the pen(s) back in the case and then put the case back in my tote. Regardless, I always check the seat pocket before we are landing, and make sure I don’t have any pens or papers left behind. Those of you fortunate enough to travel in the business/first case sections that have the fancy sleeping pods should definitely spend time looking through all the nooks and crannies. This is good practice even if you’re not flying with pens - I’ve seen folks leave behind passports, cell phones, iPads, etc in their seat pockets.

• Post-flight writing - Depending on where you’ve flown to, you may also wish to be careful when using a pen after flight. We often fly to Colorado, where it’s more than a mile higher up than home, and the change in air pressure can cause burping. So, keep the pen nib up when uncapping to minimize any inky messes that may happen. Ditto when unscrewing the valve on a vac filler (ask me how I found that out, lol).

Non-plane travel

• Trains - Whenever I’m in the East Coast, I often travel by train. Thankfully, I don’t need to worry about TSA/Security but most of the above tips still apply. My attention is focused on keeping my pens nearby. My tote is always with me at my seat and my carryon is either right above me, or I find a seat close to the luggage section of the train car so I can keep it in view. If I want to visit the dining car, I carry my tote/purse with me.

• Car/Bus - Often easier than travel by train (especially if you’re in your own car), same tips apply. Tips up for inked pens, though it’s less critical than with plane travel. The one exception would be for travel involving altitude changes as mentioned above.

I’m hoping that things settle down enough for it to be safe for more folks to travel soon. And when that time comes, I hope these tips help you feel more comfortable about traveling with your pens.

(All products pictured in this post were purchased by me. I received no compensation for including them in this article.)