Posts filed under Vintage

don’t try this at home: vintage pilot vanishing point

Vintage Pilot Vanishing Point

(This is guest post by Dennis Moore from a fleeting ripple. No capital letters were harmed in the writing of this post.)

After days of sunny weather, last night’s storm finally brought in the cold. The yellow leaves are wet on the streets, rotting in gutters. People on the streets are finally pulling out their thick coats, tall boots and fuzzy gloves. The glass covers of the bus stop seem to give some protection from the drizzle and the relentless wind. The bus itself looks almost like a ship cutting through the waves. It’s just the water in the potholes splashing taller than the bus itself. It speeds towards you, a freight train on the wet road. It’ll pass you in a moment. The roar of the motor, the roar of the tires, the splash of the water. Gone in a second. No, it slows down, comes to a halt in front of the stop. When the doors open, water drips down inside the bus, every step leaving muddy marks behind.

By nature, I am a curious person. Studying design has only spurred that curiosity forward. So when I learned about the Pilot Vanishing Point, I was obsessed. Fancy working mechanism. A simple problem -ink tends to evaporate on the nib- and an elegant solution -trapdoor. Not the crude, obvious solution of a cap. Ingenious.

Vintage Pilot Vanishing Point

Push a button. Out. Ready to write.

Push the button again. Closed off. Sealed.

Vintage Pilot Vanishing Point
Vintage Pilot Vanishing Point

My problem with the modern Vanishing Point was the weight, the clip just sat comfortably between my fingers. I cannot use a heavy pen for very long. My boyfriend’s problem was that the clip was in the way. So we did what any sane person would do: ordered a vintage one.

Vintage Pilot Vanishing Point

The vintage Pilot Vanishing Point is a whole other story. It’s a pen with a presence. Tiniest bit of retro-futurism (I guess it wasn’t “retro” at the time) and mid-century elegance. It is an unassuming plastic, with the cap at the back of the push button, it resembles a ballpoint a little too much. The cone of the pen tapers down significantly, kind of reminding me the old USSR space posters. Or I just spent too much time looking at old propaganda posters lately.

Vintage Pilot Vanishing Point

It’s a lightweight pen that fits into your hand a lot more intuitively than the modern version. The further back clip gives some extra place for your fingers, but in return, when you’re clipping it to pen cases, a significant amount of the unprotected tip pokes out. One of my pen cases doesn’t even close. The nib on mine is still gold, even though it is much harder than the Pilot nibs I’m used to. Perfectly smooth, a little on the drier side. It makes me curious about how vintage Pilot nibs are, because it is such a wildly different writing experience from modern Pilot pens.

Vintage Pilot Vanishing Point

The unfortunate part about these old Pilot pen is that it fills up with old-style cartridges. Modern Pilot cartridges will not fit into it. Of course we decided to engineer a solution for it. Because the single old cartridge it came with will wear out. Well, there is a Platinum adapter that lets you use regular international cartridges on Platinum pens It’s made of soft, thin plastic. It gets even softer and more malleable once you run it under warm water. Not too warm though, you still want to be able to hold the plastic. Then, it fits over the cartridge fitting in the vintage Vanishing Point. Awesome, right? Now you can use your pen with your endless supply of Kaweco Royal Blue short cartridges that you always throw into the darkest corner of a drawer.

Please don’t try this at home.

I refuse any responsibility for this.

I used the pen for a few days. I realised it was drying out. The line would get painfully dry, skip, then somehow start running regularly again. It bummed both of us out, it was a beautiful pen that we really looked forward to enjoying.

Then the pen started spluttering ink out. A tiny tiny drop or two onto the page every time you push the button to open the “cap.”

This time I decided to take a closer look. I took everything apart, armed myself with cotton swabs and a bowl of water to investigate what went wrong.

Spoiler: it was not the trapdoor mechanism.

Vintage Pilot Vanishing Point

The Platinum adapter had cracked. It wasn’t holding the ink cartridge to the pen’s fitting place properly. That’s why it was “drying out.” It needs ink in the first place to dry out, and this nib was not getting any! So... I raised the white flag, took out the adapter, put it in the bin and filled up the tiny little old Pilot cartridge it came with. This is a battle I cannot win.

Vintage Pilot Vanishing Point

Now, the pen is heavenly. All the beauty and comfort of the barrel, topped up by the smoothness of the nib. I sometimes underestimate how much a nib/flow problem can hinder the enjoyment of a pen because it always feels like the actual fit of the pen to my hand is more important. Lesson learned.

If you have any old Pilot cartridges laying around, hold onto them. They will become a sought after commodity when our cartridges give out on us. All jokes aside, I am extremely pleased with this pen. I got burned in the near past a couple of times by buying second-hand pens, even from places I trust to inspect the pen. Even if I inspected the pen. Human errors happen. Some of my faith is restored in buying used pens, but I doubt I’ll get them as easily from now on.

Thank you for reading!


Enjoy reading The Pen Addict? Then consider becoming a member to receive additional weekly content, giveaways, and discounts in The Pen Addict shop. Plus, you support me and the site directly, for which I am very grateful.

Membership starts at just $5/month, with a discounted annual option available. To find out more about membership click here and join us!

Vintage Pilot Vanishing Point
Posted on December 12, 2022 and filed under Vanishing Point, Pilot, Vintage.

Vintage Vs. Modern: Why Go Old School?

(Chloé Stott is a blogger, freelance writer and product reviewer with a fountain pen obsession. She is the founder of KraftyCats, where she blogs about pen restorations, guitars, cats and coffee, and publishes reviews for companies all over the world.)

When Brad kindly allowed me to write a guest post for The Pen Addict, he gave me a prompt.

'How do you decide to use a vintage pen when you have so many modern pens on hand?'

It looks like a simple question, doesn't it? I suppose it is, but there are so many different answers to it and I found it impossible to give just one reason. It took me a day to narrow the possible responses down so I could write a post. But, after all that thought, I think I can give a few points that will explain why I adore vintage pens so much and regularly use them in everyday life.

Design

Back in the early 20th century, fountain pens were so carefully designed. Take a look at the picture below - the beautiful striped design of the green Sheaffer and the delicate marbling of the Parkette. Both have shiny brass or gold-plated bands. Yes, back then, manufacturers used gold quite liberally, including it in nibs, bands, and clips. Nowadays we have cheaper substitutes that are often used instead, but the joy of a writing with a good, flexible 14k gold nib is unlike anything you'll experience when using modern pens with steel nibs.

Sheaffer
Parker Parkette

Now observe this Parker Duofold. See that ring top? I can't find any 21st century pens with that feature. The ring-top was meant for ladies, so they could wear the pen on a chain as I do. Generally speaking, men had the pens with clips, and those made for ladies had either a ring, or were just left clipless, to be carried inside a purse.

Parker Duofold Ringtop

There are several pens from this century in my collection that I would love to wear on a silver chain, but none of them have rings, so sadly I cannot...

Nibs

Modern pens typically have nibs that are made out of materials resistant to wear. That is all very well and good, and makes sense. Of course, you want a resilient nib that won't be affected by anybody else's writing style if you lend the pen to a friend, coworker, etc. But I love the fact that I can use a writing instrument from the thirties or forties, and feel the slight scratch of the nib where it was worn down by its previous owner.

I'll never know who originally owned it, but I feel that the tiny scratch I can detect when writing gives me a tiny connection to the person who loved and used this pen before me. It's a small thing, but it gives me joy. I get to daydream about the letters, messages and notes that this pen wrote long before I existed, and I like to imagine how happy the person who bought it would be to see that their pen is still cherished in 2022.

Filling Mechanisms

Today, most pens (like the one on the left) use a converter or cartridge. The Sheaffer on the right sucks ink up with an extendable metal straw. Am I the only one who finds this funny and entertaining?

Sheaffer Snorkel

A lot of vintage mechanisms were rather unnecessarily complicated but it gives them charm (unless you're trying to restore one). Converters, while often easier to use, are boring in comparison. Do you remember the green Sheaffer? It has a hidden plunger mechanism. Genius!

Longevity

Look around your house. How many items can you see that will still function in a century?

Probably not many. That's the problem. We live in a throwaway society, and members of my generation are often deep in the clutches of mindless consumerism. 'Ooh, that looks pretty, buy it. Yeah, it'll probably fall apart in a year, but who cares? I'll buy another'. This applies to clothes, electronics, you name it. Things are built to fall apart nowadays. Companies make more money if their products break.

That attitude would have horrified many of our ancestors, because they made items to last. They believed that if you paid for a product, it should last you a lifetime, and many companies such as Sheaffer actually did come with a such a guarantee. Sheaffer put a little white dot on their pens that they called the Mark Of Distinction - it signified that it was guaranteed to last for the lifetime of the person who first bought it.

Sheaffer White Dot

You didn't even have to pay extra to get that feature.

I could say more about my love of all things vintage pen related, but I think I have covered the most salient features of these amazing little pieces of engineering. I'm not saying that fountain pens manufactured more recently aren't also brilliant - I own many which I wouldn't want to be without, but their predecessors hold a special place in my heart.

Posted on April 4, 2022 and filed under Vintage, Fountain Pens, Parker, Sheaffer.

The Esterbrook J (and close relatives)

(Ron Gilmour is a fountain pen enthusiast, would-be calligrapher, and librarian. You can find him online at Twitter @gilmour70 and Instagram.)

If there is a Lamy Safari of the vintage fountain pen world, it would probably be the Esterbrook J. Like the Safari, it's inexpensive, comes in a variety of attractive colors, and has easily swappable nibs.

The pen's name comes from the shape of the internal piece that depresses the ink sac when the lever is moved. There are three size variants of the J: the classic J (the largest), the LJ (a bit thinner), and the SJ (both thinner and shorter). You'll also sometimes see models referred to as "transitional," which are basically like the J, but with a slightly different shape and no jewel at the back end of the pen barrel.

(Vocabulary note: "Jewel" refers to ornamental bits at the top of caps or the back end of the pen barrel. They are often strikingly un-jewel-like, as in the Esterbrook J, where they are discs of black plastic.)

This may be a good opportunity to mention something about sizes in vintage pens: they may be smaller than what you're used to. While there were oversize pens produced in Days of Yore, these were less common and so will be more expensive now. Many vintage pens fall in the size range of the Pelikan M2xx/4xx models, which is about the size of the Esterbrook J. If you're used to the larger end of the modern pen spectrum, you may be surprised by the small size and light weight of Esterbrooks and many other vintage pens.

The design of the pen is basic, maybe a little bland, but the celluloid of which they are made is beautiful. The black model looks like most black pens, but the colored ones are amazingly complex, exhibiting depth, vibrancy, texture to rival many far more expensive modern pens. The colors vary a lot. Saying that you have a green Esty isn't saying much: depending on factors either intrinsic to the original manufacture or the storage conditions in which the pen was kept, the greens can vary from sage to pale mint to olive. And the patterning of the material can vary, even on the same pen, from a smooth streakiness to a pronounced rippled appearance sometimes called "snakeskin."

Buying an Esterbrook

These may be the most plentiful vintage pens out there, so you shouldn't have any trouble finding one. Keep an eye on the classified sections of fountain pen websites. If you get impatient, you might even try your luck on an online auction site--just remember to buy from actual pen dealers.

The main thing you'll want to be clear about with a purchase is the condition of the sac. Assuming you're not looking to get into pen repair as a hobby, you'll want a pen in which the sac has been recently replaced, ideally by the person who is selling you the pen. Ink sacs break down and you don't want to find that your new-to-you Esty is full of crunchy bits of ossified sac material and dried ink.

Filling Your Esterbrook

The Esterbrook J and its relatives are lever fillers. There's a little lever on the outside of the pen body. When you open the lever, the "J bar" inside the pen squeezes the sac and air is forced out through the nib. When you return the lever to its flush position, the ink sac is released and re-inflates, drawing in ink.

All you need to do is stick the nib in a bottle of ink, making sure that the entire nib is submerged. Open the lever (you should see or hear bubbling as air is forced out). Now close the lever, leaving the pen in place for a few seconds to allow time for the ink to be drawn up. Repeat this process to get a more complete fill. Wipe off the nib and grip section with a paper towel and you're ready to write.

Cleaning your Esterbrook

Thanks to the removable nib units, Esterbrooks are easier to clean than many other sac-filling pens. If you're a patient person, you can submerge the nib in water and pump the lever gently until the water comes out clean. If you're more thorough or less patient, you can remove the nib unit and rinse out the inside of the sac directly. You might try using a blunt syringe to shoot water into the sac, but, of course, don't poke the sac.

About Those Nibs

You know how you might go into a coffee shop and order something like a full-fat, half-caf, hazelnut latte with an extra shot of vanilla? (Not my thing, but I've seen people do this.) Customization is fun! You're not just ordering a generic cup of Joe--you're ordering this highly specialized drink that you experience as uniquely yours.

Esterbrook figured out this customization thing long before Starbucks. Their interchangeable "Re-New Point" nibs come in dozens of varieties, tailored to specific purposes. They even offered nibs specifically for use with the Gregg shorthand system of writing. The nibs are all steel, but for the most part are of high quality. I've heard of duds, but since new ones are so readily available, even if you have the bad luck of getting an Esty with a bum nib, you can replace it fairly cheaply.

The nib types are designated by four digit numbers. There are patterns to these codes, but I've never bothered to learn them. Just look them up on a chart like this one. The common nib types, like the 2556 "firm fine" on my copper J, are often available for under $10 US, while more exotic nib types like flex and stub nibs can be more expensive.

The nibs work a lot like those on modern Pelikan pens. The nibs and feeds are assembled into units, so you can just screw out the whole nib/feed assembly and screw in a new one. As you do this, grip the nib firmly near the base to avoid twisting the tines.

Further Reading

Posted on June 2, 2016 and filed under Esterbrook, Vintage.